Episode 29 · Excuse me, where's the pharmacy?

Welcome back to Beirut! You've had quite a week. You've got a running tab at Sett Sana's grocery, and Maya is already busy making plans to drag you to the sea.

But today, your head is pounding. Maybe it's from trying to decipher Maya's rapid-fire text messages, or maybe it's just the heat. Either way, you need a pharmacy.

Only one problem: you've taken a wrong turn past the square, and now you have absolutely no idea where you are. You remember our word for 'where' from your first day?

wein?

Exactly. Just as you're about to give up, a woman walks by. She's wearing a crisp blouse, carrying a neat leather bag, and she has this calm, deliberate energy about her.

She looks like someone who knows exactly where everything is. You step forward, hoping to ask 'Excuse me, where's the pharmacy?'

law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

لو سمحت، وين الصيدلية؟ — Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? · law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

Let's look at that. To say 'excuse me' when asking a stranger for something, we use law sama7t.

لو سمحت، وين الصيدلية؟ — Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? · law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

Notice that breathy, deep sound in the middle of sama7t? It's like you're fogging up a mirror. Try saying it with me, just that first part: law sama7t.

لو سمحت، وين الصيدلية؟ — Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? · law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

Now, a quick secret: law sama7t is the base form, which you use when speaking to a man. Since Dr. Hala is a woman, you'd technically add a little 'i' sound at the end: law sama7ti. But she understood your effort perfectly.

لو سمحت، وين الصيدلية؟ — Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? · law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

And the second part is just our old friend wein followed by the word for pharmacy: es-saydaliyyé. Say the whole thing with me: law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

لو سمحت، وين الصيدلية؟ — Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? · law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé?

Dr. Hala stops. She doesn't use the fast, casual slang you hear from Jad. Her Arabic is clear, crisp, and beautifully pronounced. She points down the street.

3a-l-yamin.

على اليمين — On the right · 3a-l-yamin

3a-l-yamin. On the right. This is going to save you so many times when you're lost. Let's break it down.

على اليمين — On the right · 3a-l-yamin

The first word starts with that deep throat sound, tightening the back of your throat. Try it slowly with me: 3a-l-yamin. And one more time, naturally: 3a-l-yamin.

على اليمين — On the right · 3a-l-yamin

3a-l-yamin?

على اليمين — On the right · 3a-l-yamin

Let's pause and lock these in. First, asking politely: law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé? ... law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé? And the answer she gave, 'on the right': 3a-l-yamin. ... 3a-l-yamin.

Dr. Hala nods, but seeing you still look a little uncertain, she decides to give you a bit more detail.

2iddém el-furn.

قدّام الفرن — In front of the bakery · 2iddém el-furn

She's telling you a landmark: 2iddém el-furn. Meaning, 'in front of the bakery'.

قدّام الفرن — In front of the bakery · 2iddém el-furn

That first word, 2iddém, starts with a sharp catch in the back of your throat, almost like a tiny hiccup before the vowel. Say it with me: 2iddém. Again: 2iddém el-furn.

قدّام الفرن — In front of the bakery · 2iddém el-furn

You know the bakery! The smell of fresh bread drifts over your balcony every morning. You nod eagerly.

jamb es-sa7a.

جنب الساحة — Next to the square · jamb es-sa7a

jamb es-sa7a. 'Next to the square'. This word jamb is incredibly useful. It means next to, beside, or near.

جنب الساحة — Next to the square · jamb es-sa7a

Try saying just that first word with me, letting your lips close softly on the 'm' sound: jamb. Now the whole phrase: jamb es-sa7a.

جنب الساحة — Next to the square · jamb es-sa7a

The square! That's right where you live. You want to show her you understand, so you proudly pull out a phrase from your very first day.

ah, fo2 el-2ahwé!

Dr. Hala's perfectly composed expression breaks into the faintest, warmest smile. She recognizes Abu Naji's corner. But suddenly, you have a terrible thought.

es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

الصيدلية مفتوحة؟ — Is the pharmacy open? · es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

It's late in the afternoon, and many shops close for a few hours. You asked: es-saydaliyyé maftou7a? 'Is the pharmacy open?'

الصيدلية مفتوحة؟ — Is the pharmacy open? · es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

Because es-saydaliyyé is a feminine word, the word for open has to match it. That's why it ends with that 'a' sound: maftou7a. Say it with me: maftou7a. Now the whole question: es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

الصيدلية مفتوحة؟ — Is the pharmacy open? · es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

Dr. Hala reaches into her elegant leather bag and pulls out a heavy ring of keys with a soft jingle.

éh. tfaddal.

She's the pharmacist! You just asked the owner for directions to her own shop. You follow her, your headache already starting to fade.

Let's review our journey today. Excuse me, where's the pharmacy? law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé? ... law sama7t, wein es-saydaliyyé? On the right: 3a-l-yamin. ... 3a-l-yamin.

In front of the bakery: 2iddém el-furn. ... 2iddém el-furn. Next to the square: jamb es-sa7a. ... jamb es-sa7a. And asking if it's open: es-saydaliyyé maftou7a? ... es-saydaliyyé maftou7a?

Now that you've met the formidable Dr. Hala, the whole neighbourhood is starting to open up. And good thing you've got your medicine, because Maya hasn't forgotten about those sea plans for tomorrow! Join us every Tuesday and Friday to see what happens next. Yalla, bye!